|
The small village of Coyllurqui is famous for a controversial “blood
festival”, the highlight of which is a symbolic battle between a condor
and a bull.
The Peruvian Blood Festival known as the Yawar Fiesta is a big deal in
Coyllurqui, a small mountain village a nine-hour bus ride away from the
city of Cusco. It’s pretty much the only place in the South American
country where tourists can experience the traditional bird vs. bull
fight anymore. Formally known as ‘Turupucllay’ (Game of the Bull), it
used to be held in cities like Cusco centuries ago, but animal rights
activists managed to get it banned in Peru years ago. However, in remote
rural settlements like Coyllurqui, enforcing the law is tricky,
especially when that goes against the economic interest of the locals.
|
|
 |
|
“If people come, it’s to see the condor,” Coyllurqui’s mayor, Carlos
Bocange said in an interview. “If there’s no condor, there’s no fiesta.”
“I think that it is crucial, the protection of the condor,” former mayor
Walter Bocangel Gamarra previously told NPR. “But here we have these
customs, these traditions. If there’s not a condor, there’s no
festival.”
So even though they both agree that the conservation of the condor is
important, the economic uplift that the Yawar Fiesta brings to
Coyllurqui is even more so. Plus, the symbolism of the bizarre battle
between the condor, Peru’s national bird, and the bull, Spain’s
unofficial national emblem, is also a major element of the Yawar Fiesta.
“When [the people] put the condor on top of the bull that is a way of
saying the Inca is back,” photojournalist Cecilia Larrabure said. “For
them, it’s important to have that feeling — at least once a year they
can hope.”
|
|
 |
|
So every year, in mid-summer, the village of Coyllurqui holds the famous
Yawar Fiesta and its controversial condor vs. bull battles. The large
birds, with wingspans of up to 3.2 meters, are fed alcohol and then
brought into a large, dirt-filled arena and then tied to the backs of
large black bulls. Their legs are immobilized, so they can’t jump or fly
away.
When the bull is released into the arena to the cheers of thousands of
spectators, the panicked condor sitting on its back starts pecking at
its skin, ears or even its eyes, in self-defense. If the bull isn’t
making an effort to throw off the bird, matadors with red capes are sent
in to keep it active. It’s a blood sport that often leaves both
“combatants” injured, or even maimed.
For many, the fight represents the battle between the native Inca and
the Spanish conquistadors. If any condor is killed or injured during the
fight, which usually lasts about 30 minutes, it is considered a bad omen
for the year.
Animal conservationists have been trying to get the bird vs. bull
battles of Coyllurqui banned for years, but with locals committed to
preserving their traditions, their efforts have proven futile so far.
|