The elephant is the national animal of Thailand and
was once widely used as a work animal in the country’s forests. While
the days of tourists being able to view these creatures at work has all
but come to an end, the opportunity to experience elephants close up
remains at Thaland’s largest elephant village in Ban Ta Klang in Surin
Province.
“We are the largest elephant village in the world,” says 52-year-old
district spokesman Prakit Klangpattana. “There are 190 elephants and
1,400 people living here.”
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Some families, including Prakit’s, earn extra income by renting out
guest rooms to tourists.
An overnight stay with full board, including three freshly prepared
meals, costs about $25. Use of a bicycle is often thrown in, as is a
tour of the neighbouring villages on motorbike. Another excellent way to
get to know the locals is by sharing some beers in the evening on the
terrace.
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The most fascinating attraction for children has to be the chance to get
close up to some baby elephants. “We have only been here three hours but
I can already say that it is wonderful,” says one father from Bangkok.
He had previously brought his family to other elephant parks where the
shows, which he described as bearing a close resemblance to circus
entertainment, were watched by more Germans, British and Russians than
native Thais.
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In Ban Ta Klang, visitors follow a group of about a dozen elephants,
feeding them bananas and bamboo shoots.
Tens of thousands of elephants used to roam Thailand’s highland forests,
but now just a few hundred remain.
The animals initially lost much of their habitat through forest
clearances while the necessity for elephants in the logging industry was
made redundant with the imposition of a ban on logging.
“The animals have a much better life with us than they previously had in
the city,” says a mahout.
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There were still about 100 elephants living in Bangkok until 12 years
ago. The animals and their owners survived by begging for food and
money, but the government finally took action to end the practice after
an elephant ran amok through the streets, frightened by the noise and
traffic.
The elephants had to leave the city and many eventually found a new home
in Ban Ta Klang. Elephants are revered in Thailand by the local populace
and royal family alike. White elephants, meanwhile, are considered
sacred and a symbol of royal power.
“We are hoping to secure more space for the animals as well as some land
of their own for the mahouts where they can plant crops to feed the
elephants. The local communities, government, sponsors and aid
organisations are doing a lot but the amount of finance available is
still limited,” says Prakit.
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The village is not equipped to deal with mass tourism but visitors are
welcome as long as they respect the traditions and values of the
inhabitants.
Nong, a mahout, rubs cream into the inflammation around the back and
behind the ear of his teenage elephant Apow. “It’s a mixture of herbs
that works. The wounds will heal quickly,” says the 29-year-old.
Each November, Nong and his fellow mahouts drive their elephants to
Surin for one of Thailand’s largest elephant festivals where it quickly
becomes clear how revered the animals are in Thai society.
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