When you travel 13km southward
from Saidu Sharif, a beautiful lush green Valley of Marghazar welcomes you.
There is narrow curly metalled road running among lofty mountains, trees laden
with fruits and unique houses of mud and stone. This greenery of gorgeous
landscape persuaded King of Swat Gul Abdul Wadood in 1935 to build a summer
resort here. The King brought marble from Agra, bronze from Belgium and artisan
from Turkey who not only designed it but also constructed it. Thus, in 1941, a
beautiful palace of white stone was erected which was first named Swatti Taj
Mahal, later Motti Mahal and now Sufed Mahal(White Palace). Then it was enriched
with selective fauna and flora that made it mini zoo as well as mini botanical
garden.
When we, me and my family, reached near White Place, a beautiful lawn teeming
with flowers laid on green carpeted grass offered welcome greeting. When we saw
up the splendid White stone building saluted us and when turned out eyes still
higher a sky high mountain hailed us. For a moment, a wave of ecstasy ran
through entire body. In this state of trance, a voice: “Salam, there is lot more
to see!” of Mr. Naveed Ahmad, broke the spell of enchantment. He further added:
“I am Manager of the hotel”. After brief introduction from both sides, he showed
us every inch of the palace. Mr. Naveed Ahmad Awan is permanent resident of
Mianwali, did his BBA and Hotel Management Course from Manchester UK. Then the
love of country took him back and has been working as Manager of White Palace
for the last 10 years. Finding a golden opportunity, I started asking questions
in an interview style.
About the interior of Palace, he disclosed that there are 24 active spacious
decorated rooms and started showing us the palace. First, we saw Royal Suite
(ex-King’s bedroom) where once Queen Elizabeth also stayed for three day. There
are two big conference halls where King Abdul Wadood used to hold cabinet
meetings. There is a Noor Restaurant equipped with cooking facility of Chinese,
continental and Pakistani food. There is King’s lobby to have beautiful view of
the Garden Lawn. On the right side, there is a king’s Veranda to have a glimpse
of swirling stream of water. The stream of water is not only cool but also
pleasant in taste. Water seeps through different coloured stones to present a
kaleidoscopic view.
On the left side of palace is situated six-roomed Lord’s Block for the residence
of ministers and advisors. From there we climbed stairs and reached eight-roomed
Prince Block, it is totally enclave in tree and shrubs. Climbing further stairs,
we reached twelve-roomed Queen’s block. King Abdul Wadood had two wives so he
built this block in way that each wife got 3 rooms, 3 servant rooms and a
separate lawn in her share. The counterpart portion of second wife is replica of
the first one. In front of the lawn, there is single balcony with marble benches
and table with engraved painting of grapes. From here, one can see a marvelous
boulder mountain. On the top of mountain, there is a house with electricity
available since 1941. It was amazing.
About the material of White Palace, Mr.Naveed told that marble was imported from
Jaypure India, the same quarry that supplied marble to the Taj Mahal Agra. Chuna
(lime) is used as binding material in place of cement. It is so compact to be
drilled. The height of ceiling is 30-35ft to give extra strength and ward off
heat. Ceiling fans were imported and installed in 1941 and are still working.
The king paid special attention toward roof construction. It has many layers;
first bronze layer, deodar wood layer, lime layer, mud layer, again deodar wood
layer and finally top layer of iron. This multilayered roof gives extra strength
and keeps heat at a bay.
In the meanwhile, we returned to lawn, where we saw a beautiful green coloured
insect known as Ghana Kai(leaf beetle).Here Mr Naveed pointed towards a kachchi
road(unmetalled road) on the east, leading to Koh-e-Elam; mountain of 10,000 ft
height with thick forest, springs, meadows, etc. According to a tradition, Rama
Chandra spent 14 years of his exile at mount Elam. It is said that Rama Takhat
(seat of Rama) still exists in good condition. There is also a small pond. This
mountain has Buddhist place of worship, church and mosque. It is considered
sacred by the Buddhist and the Hindu. It is 4 hours trekking from the palace,
horses are also available. Foreigners whenever stayed at White Palace,
essentially visited Koh-e-Elam.
Chinese travelers Fahein, Xuangzang and Sang Yun visited this mountain and used
this very route. According to another tradition, Alexander the Great climbed to
the top to hold Jopeer star. There are many small villages on the way to
mountain, for example; Joghiano, Elam Kalay, Jauz, kodona, Biloo Khan, etc.
There is famous flower “Namer” having size of rose. It is of red color and
eatable. One person who has eaten this flower told it to be sweet in taste and
has no seed. The Hindu regards this flower sacred. This mountain is also famous
for hunting desert sheep, ibex, chikor(pheasant) and Murgh-e-Zarian(golden
cock). On the other side of the mountain is the city of Buner.
In a question regarding fauna and flora in White palace, Mr. Naveed told that
there was a mini zoo containing pheasant, partridge, love bird, peacock, monkey,
etc. During the flood of 2010, it was shifted to Islamabad and not yet returned.
Here, he also informed that vulture in the area is facing extinction, dying of
goiter due to eating dead animal of dairy form as they are vaccinated profusely.
King of Swat planted apple, apricot, persimmon, plum, grapes, amlook, walnut,
etc- fruits tree of all seasons so that he could eat them the entire year. Woody
trees are deodar (Himalayan cedar), chinar, pine, poplar, dhreek(melia azadarach),
wild kikar(acacia), bekana, kathol (only present in white palace),etc.
In question about the keen areas of tourist’s interest, Mr. Naveed said most
people visit to see the building; some likes the noise of running water of
stream and wind chime. Other likes bonfire; a famous event of White Palace
especially in cold season.
To a question about promotion of tourism, Mr. Naveed told, there is no tower of
mobile in nearby vicinity so cell phone doesn’t work. Second, there has been no
facility of internet since the flood. Now a day these two things have become
part and parcel of our lives. So tourists get annoy and quit early.
In a question about the ownership of white palace, Mr Naveed told, after the
death of Mian Gul Wadood, Mian Asfand Yar of PML (N) became the owner but was
martyred in 2007. Now a day Mian Gull Aurangzeb of PML (N) is the owner.
About a question how much damage incurred in 2010 Flood, Mr. Naveed told, flood
washed away the back side of palace having water bank, bridge, washrooms and a
small lawn.
Water tank (reservoir) was not only a recreational spot but also a main source
of clean drinking water. He further said in intermittent sentences; it rained
for just four hours on 10th July, 2010 and a huge torrent of water came that
rose to 3 feet level in the palace… The American has “Harp technology” which
creates waves under ocean… It may be activity of sabotage… After the flood, USA
provided help in 2010-2011 for development of tourism, rehabilitation of economy
and employment. USA AID poured but with a condition to provide informational
data. I handed over entire data to them… We took blankets, television,
refrigerator etc from Americans. Now they have data of all the area and what
will they do? God knows better! We are worried at the moment as flood doesn’t
seem a natural phenomenon!
In a question about the dignitaries who paid visit to White Palace. He said
Queen Elizabeth visited in 1961 and stayed here for three days as she discovered
the deep tradition and history which surround the Swat Valley.
Other includes Murtaza Bhutto, Pir Sabir Shah( ex-Chief Minister Khyber-Pukhtonkhwa),
Abdul Aziz Mirza (ex-Chief of Naval Staff), justice Rana Baghwan Das, justice
Javed Iqbal, D K Mehta Indian commissioner, Mustansar Hussain Tarar and now you.
I laughed, then we both, etc.
Finally he escorted us to Parking area where king of Swat made a Visitor place.
There were placed ortho benches of stone. They are cured in way, one who sits;
they take off all the signs of weariness and tiredness. Then there is 200 year
old colossal chinar tree, serving as canopy for the visitors.
At the end we thanked him for his hospitality and information about white palace
and adjoining area. He advised us to see the place while returning to Saidu
Sharif. He said; at Mian Baba, there is a tomb of Hazrat Mian Baba, at Sappal
bandi Sindya Baba tomb and a newly discovered stone having naturally inscribed
name of Muhammad (PBUH).There are archeological remains at Bali Gram and Shana
Sha. Also visit Salampure Village, it has hundreds of khadian (weaving machines)
engaged in manufacturing of wool and silk cloth, blanket and Shawls. These
products have countrywide good reputation. Then we offered parting greeting and
departed. We followed his advice and visited almost all the suggested places.
Marghazar, literal meaning greenland, is really so with green valleys, splendid
mountains, pleasing atmosphere, cold water springs, fragrance of flowers,
prettiness of hanging fruits, etc. Its good looks are further enhanced by White
Palace and the myths of mount Elam mystify it. A magnificent matchless meadow of
Marghazar multiplied by mammoth, mystifying mountains and marvelous marble
mansion—make mode of a man mellow.