Breaking the ice in Greenland
October 25, 2012, 2:57 pm Lauren Taylor AAP
It may be a country made predominantly of ice, but Greenland has a community of
warm-hearted people.
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The gentle sway of the boat wakes me. I open my curtains and half gasp, half
laugh. A glacier is framed perfectly between the edges of my window. As morning
views go, this is pretty surreal.
It's 7am and I'm sailing up the west coast of Greenland on the MS Fram.
With a population of less than 58,000, it's hard to believe this is the world's
biggest island. During our seven-night trip we will visit some of the remote
coastal settlements, meet local characters and admire the icy landscapes.
As we set sail into the unknown, from the green hills of Kangerlussuaq toward
the snow-topped mountains in the distance, there's a dizzying anticipation of
what's to come. Our exploration into the wild will take us into the Arctic
Circle to the ice fjords around the Disko Bay area and back southwards along the
coastline.
There is a choice of different rooms on board, ranging from large suites with
private balconies to smaller, more functional cabins with portholes. But as
expedition leader Anja reminds us several times, this is an expedition ship not
a cruise ship. The emphasis is on adventure not opulence.
Still, the ship itself has everything you need for seven days, with plenty of
places to relax and (literally) watch the world go by. There are spacious decks
to take in the crisp fresh air and a big lounge where nights are spent sipping
Norwegian aquavit and reflecting on the day's activity.
With boat trips and hiking tours on most stops along the coast, the 10-strong
expedition team really make the voyage an adventure. Each one is an expert in
their field and their enthusiasm for Greenland, its geography and its people is
infectious.
Our first stop is the fishing town of Sisimiut, the largest settlement outside
of the capital Nuuk. Bright red, blue, yellow and green houses are dotted around
the port and surrounding hills. Here, you can find artists sewing seal skin or
filing down reindeer antler and carving whale jaw into jewellery for sale at
local craft fairs.
I'd never been to a polar region before, and as we move from the green hills of
Sisimiut to the smaller settlement of Qeqertarsuaq I'm awe-struck by the
glistening white icebergs floating in the emerald sea.
I marvel at them from different angles, looking at their changing colour and
shape. And the novelty doesn't wear off. Each one is a piece of art, a natural
sculpture moulded by the tides. Over time it will erode and disappear forever.
But it's not just the ice that characterises Greenland's landscape. An area of
the island is covered in sand. Close to our third stop, Uummannaq, I climb to
the top of the mineral-rich Red Desert, formed by a mixture of iron and sulphur.
Where else in the world can you gaze at icebergs with sand beneath your feet?
The air is still and silent, nothing can grow here, no birds occupy the air and
there isn't a single person in sight.
Our much anticipated descent back around the Disko bay and towards the famous
ice fjord of Ilulissat is just as dramatic. The Fram slows to navigate her way
through sheets of ice and for the first time it dawns on me that we were really
at the mercy of the elements.
Even in a sturdy, modern 12,000-ton ship, it's possible to feel vulnerable.
Of course we are in big safe Norwegian hands, but that element of adventure in
wild, untouched parts of the world certainly adds to the thrill as the captain
expertly navigates through the polar equivalent of a minefield.
Later, bobbing up and down on Zodiacs (motorised dinghies), we're taken up close
to the huge mounds of ice. For the first time, we are looking up at the icebergs
rather than down from the deck.
I switch from feeling rather indifferent about ice to becoming borderline
obsessive, and I'm not the only one.
Edging further into the freezing waters, the captain warns that a lack of wind
will prevent any movement of the dense ice, meaning it's too risky for us to
attempt floating through, forcing us to abandon a landing in Ilulissat.
We have no choice but to accept the power of nature and sail on past to another
village, Qasigiannguit, where we are treated to a hauntingly beautiful
performance by the local church choir.
You have to look pretty hard to find much wildlife on this stretch of the west
coast (most can be found on the east side of the island), but that makes it all
the more special when we finally do.
"There's a whale on port side!" the tannoy booms on our fourth day at sea.
I sprint along the deck and, about five metres away, a dark mass emerges from
the water, before elegantly diving down, heaving its tail into the air.
Expedition leader Friederike bursts into tears. She's been visiting Greenland
for 30 years and this is her first sighting of a bowhead whale. These grand
creatures are so rare that no one has been able to predict just how many are
left.
Our encounter with the whale is certainly a highlight, but the real focus of
Hurtigruten's The Heart of Greenland cruise is the local people, the Kalaallit,
and their strong cultural identity.
People survive here by using local resources to their best advantage, and
fishing is still the main trade. Seal hunting is also still an important way of
life, for both food and clothing. The skin provides warmth in harsh winter
weather and is also a part of traditional dress.
One woman from the tiny settlement of Itilleq, who invited a few of us into her
home for tea, proudly shows off her seal skin shorts, boots and an intricately
weaved multi-coloured top.
At our forth stop of Ukkusissat, the villagers are invited on board the Fram to
perform traditional Greenlandic song and dance.
Afterwards we're welcomed on land for coffee and cake. One young man, Malik, 19,
even insists on taking me for a guided tour of the village where he'd grown up.
This kind hospitality, I quickly discover, is typically Greenlandic.
After exploring a country made up of 85 per cent ice, it's fitting that we end
our trip standing on the ice cap itself. The second largest body of ice on the
planet, 110,000 years old , it is an overwhelming sight.
From exploring polar waters to cheering on a football match between the locals
of Itilleq and a cobbled-together team from the ship, every element of our
adventure was authentic, intimate and special.